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Louis Rousseau Conference: Winter ascent of the Gasherbrum I (8080m)
Louis Rousseau Conference: Winter ascent of the Gasherbrum I (8080m). The conference is in french.
Thursday, June 2, 2011, 7:00 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.
Location: Horizon Roc Climbing Center
[...]New restrictions : MUA in the Gunks
There seems to be some big changes at the Multi-Use Area camping in the Gunks:
-Closing the north side of the MUA
-Limit of 81 campers on the south side (9 campers per camp)
-No parking [...]Need leaders - Spring-summer outings calendar
Spring is slowly coming! To a lot of us, this means hiking and rock climbing! Soon, the spring-summer outings calendar will be available on the ACC Montreal Website.
We are currently looking [...]The adventures of Claude Lavallee
Claude Lavallee, one of the great pioneers of rock climbing in Quebec offers his memories of the last 60 years of climbing in the "Belle Province". Over the next 13 weeks you can follow the series on [...]
The Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) and the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de L'escalade (FQME) are pleased to announce a multi-year agreement to extend benefits to their members.
Under [...]Climbing in Val David - New rules
To all users climbs Regional Park Dufresne Val-David/Val-Morin
Ladies and Gentlemen,
For years the climbing in Park Regional Dufresne was taken care of by the Quebec Federation of [...]The Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) has reached an agreement with the Society for Ecology Batture Kamouraska (SEBKA) so that our members can climb for free in exchange for liability insurance coverage offered [...]
Groupe des Alpinistes et Grimpeurs Anonymes (conference in French)
For April, GAGA is inviting Bernard Mailhot and Philippe Pibarot.
Bernard et Philippe nous présenteront un hommage
Location: Boulnoir, Métro Mont-Royal [...]GAGA - March with Jean-Pierre Danvoye
For march, the GAGA [Groupe des Alpinistes et Grimpeurs Anonymes] will feature Jean-Pierre Danvoye, Photograph and adventure guide.
When? Tue Mar 2th, 2010
Where? Boulnoir, 551 Mont-Royal
Location: Boulnoir [...]GMC in brand new location for 2010!
The ACC is pleased to announce that the General Mountaineering Camp (GMC) will be held in a new location in 2010.
The Battle Brook area is south of Rogers Pass and west of Battle Abbey in the southern [...]Spanish Adventure Film Festival in Montreal
For the first time, the best of Venezuelan fadventure film festival is presented in Montreal on Nov 12, 2009.
http://www.ascenso.org.ve/montreal/On Sunday Nov 15 2009 at Horizon Roc climbing gym, there will be the 9th edition of the bouldering competition Au Defi du Bloc.
http://horizonroc.com/Reading weather: cold and warm fronts
Have you ever wondered what happens when weather fronts collide?
And what exactly is the difference between the fronts apart from the obvious cold and warm adjectives?
Do you know the difference [...]GAGA is back this season with Louis Rousseau
The GAGA [Groupe des Alpinistes Anonymes] is back for another season at BoulNoir.
There first event will feature no one else than Louis Rousseau.
When? Tue Nov 10, 2009
Where? BoulNoir, [...]Are the Mountains Killing Your Brain?
You have to be poco loco to be a climber, says Dr. Nicholas Fayed.
A neuroradiologist at the Clinica Quiron de Zaragoza, in northern Spain, Dr. Fayed leads me into his office and pulls out a collection [...]A quebec made climbing movie named "L'Ascension" with quebec climbers should be available on DVD soon.
Details and preview/trailer:
http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ [...]The Reel Rock Tour will be help on Nov 3rd 2009 in Montreal. Don't miss this great adventure film event.
http://www.reelrocktour.com/On October 23, at the TAFF, the 2009 FQME awards have been handed out. The 3 prizes aim to underline the different efforts of individuals or groups of person.
The Claude Lavallée award is handed [...]Horizon Roc , 15 years, celebrations
HORIZON ROC Anniversary
15 tears ..... 15 days of celebrations
For Nov 1st to 15, 2009
http://horizonroc.comOn Saturday, October 24th, members of the Alpine Club of Canada will be participating with the 350 Canmore Climate Crusaders, drawing attention to the threat that climate change poses to Canada's mountain [...]
According to the FQME's website, a provincial competition circuit has been setup.
Other then the local comps already organized by the different gyms, and the popular Tour de Bloc, the FQME is listing [...]Travel and Adventure Film Festival
The Travel and Adventure Film Festival (TAFF) (previously the Montreal International Adventure Film Festival) will be held October 21-24.
Check out the great films, join a workshop or watch a presentation [...]Lara Seward-Guenette, editor of the Rocky Mountain Section's newsletter, "The Blizzard", has provided a couple of backcountry recipes for NewsNet readers.
To find out how to make Black Bean, Rice [...]Nanga Parbat: 1st canadian ascent
Louis Rousseau is giving a presentation about his expedition on the Naga Parbat(8125m), Pakistan.
At MEC Montreal, Octobre 15th 2009, 7pm
RSVP with MEC
- Contact: LViger-Bernard@mec.ca
[...]Join the International Day of Climat Action, Oct 24
Dear fellow climbers;
We have access to parts of the world few of our fellow citizens ever see, and we have a particular set of skills not many share.
We're asking you to bring those two things [...]The time has come to recruit for the ADK's annual....FALL TRAILS DAY!!!!!!
This is the last chance to clean drainages of fallen leaves and other debris before the snow arrives.
This year, [...]10 Tips for Action Photography
"Working as a contributing photographer for New York Times, Tim Worley's work has appeared in dozens of articles for the paper. Here are 10 tips from common techniques to unorthodox tricks - Worley offers [...]
To follow is a link to photographs of wildflowers of the Canadian Rockies
and nearby foothills, prairies, and the Waterton-Glacier area.
The plants are indexed according to scientific, common, [...]GMC in brand new location for 2010!
The ACC is pleased to announce that the General Mountaineering Camp (GMC) will be held in a new location in 2010.
The Battle Brook area is south of Rogers Pass and west of Battle Abbey in the southern [...]Nothing is more frustrating than falling because your foot slipped.
It's not frustrating because you passed the crux, were still fresh, or had just one move to finish your project.
No, it's [...]ACC member Sonnie Trotter has been up to his usual superhuman tricks of late - check out his climbing videos at
https://admin.alpineclubofcanada.ca/link/to/1701-58674-15-02
especially "The Bizmark", [...]Quebec native "Max Turgeon pulled off a lovely solo, self-supported, unmotorized traverse of the Alps, from Chamonix to Trieste, climbing classic big faces along the way, over 18 days in August. The stats [...]
It is never too early to start thinking about applying for an ACC
financial grant.
The Club offers cash incentives for young female expeditions, youth leadership development, environmental [...]Winter Expedition in the Karakoram with Montreal people
The first winter expedition to the Chinese side of the Gasherbrum glacier in the Karakoram was organized by Jacques Olek from Montreal, a long-time alpinist icon in the city.
The members [...]Rare ascent of Alberta North Face
"Canadians Jay Mills and Dana Ruddy climbed the original route on the north face of Mt. Alberta in the Canadian Rockies in mid-August, making a single-push and nearly free ascent of the rarely climbed [...]
"Shoe designers still find ways to tempt those of us who need the
perfect shoe for a specific climb. So, as with last year, we asked them
to send us their flagship high-performance sport/bouldering [...]Ski the Dolomites with the ACC
The Dolomites of Italy are an outdoor enthusiasts' playground, full of
ski touring opportunities and close to the comforts of traditional
Italian mountain villages.
We will base our [...]"The famous Italian alpinist Riccardo Cassin passed away on August 6 in
his home in Northern Italy. During his climbing career, Cassin
established an impressive list of alpine ascents including [...]Dear climbers this year again Karine Tousignant and Alain Simard, in collaboration with the club Saguenay Mountain invites you to a weekend of climbing in the Parc des Grands Jardins.
As in previous [...]FQME: Creation of the Via Ferrata committee
The FQME training committee wants to set up an expert committee Via Ferrata to achieve the following mandates:
* Setting up of the conference for the symposium to be held in September 2009
[...]Closure - Sector Gummy Tummy - Val-David
10 August 2009
A team visited the site last Saturday. FQME undertake the work of purges to secure the area during the week of 10 August 2009 to allow the opening of the sector as soon as possible.
[...]FQME: Creation of the ice expert committee
The new ice expert committee mandate is
* Set up the structure
* Develop programs for each level
* Collect existing documents in different organizations and work with [...]FQME: Volunteer for the FestiRoc
The FQME is looking for volunteers to ensure the success of FestiRoc, a new outdoor climbing festival to be held in Val-David 11, 12 and 13 September.
* Ensure the safety of participants
[...]Re-opening of pic aux Corbeaux (Orford, Qc)
Thanks to "pic aux corbeaux" users who respected the section closure, falcon nesting was a success! Three new falcons finally left the nest.
This Orford sector will thus re-open to hikers [...]Follow ACC Montreal on twitter
You're a member of the Alpine club of Canada, Montreal Section?
Follow you club on twitter, we'll keep you informed of news, activities and more!
https://twitter.com/ACC_Montrea [...]Volunteers to help for a rappel clinic
The club d'escalade Lanaudière is seeking volunteers to help for a rappel clinic/initiation that will be part of Québec secours conventum.
This clinic will be on May 30, 4pm, at Village des Jeunes [...]This year marks the 100th anniversary of the legendary mountain guide Conrad Kain's arrival to Canada, whose remarkable guiding career spanned nearly 30 years. In 1909, Kain journeyed to Canada where [...]
There will be some work at the Mount Larose (Weir) cliff on May 23 and 24. It is important to note that climbing during these two days WILL NOT be possible due to dangers from the work. Volunteers that
Location: Weir [...]The city of Montreal have decided to close the access to Parc Rutherford, where the popular ice climbing McTavish reservoire area is located.
There is a petition you can sign to revert this [...]ACC has new president and executive committee
At its May 2nd AGM in Canmore, the new ACC president and executive committee were announced.
Peter Muir is the Club's 31st president.
Peter grew up in Winnipeg - the birthplace of the [...]Lanaudiere climbing guide book
The Lanaudiere climbing guide book is now available.
You can get a copy at LaCordee or Mountain Equipment Coop.
Profits from this book solde through the FQME are totally reinvested on climbing [...]Tour de Bloc - May 16/17 - Volunteers needed
The well known indoor bloc climbing competition is back at AllezUp climbing gym on May 16/17
They are looking for volunteers to help with the event.
http://tourdebloc.com/the_bl [...]Backcountry Tool Showdown; iPhone vs. Stick
"We all know how important the iPhone is when you're showing off at the bar and solidifying your status as the most cutting-edge member of your crew, but how useful will it be when you find yourself [...]
After hard work from motivated volunteers, the Lac Long climbing area has been officially transferred to the St-Alban municipality. This action and hard work insures long time access to climbers and for [...]
Friendly Climbing Competition - May 3
The Chinook 6 event will be on May 3 at Action Direct climbing gym.
It is a friendly indoor climbing competition for all levels.
There is room for only 130 people.
Reservation recommended.
[...]Lac Larouche and Pic aux Corbeaux
Climbing at Lac Larouche and Lac Long is presently not allowed. Negotiations for access are ongoing. Please respect the temporary interdiction.
Please read the press release from FQME for more details [...]Mt Pinacle - Route closures - falcon nesting
Charles Laliberte inform us that 2 falcons have installed themselves in the right sector on Pinacle.
Thus please avoid the same sector as last year. Do not climb anything right of "la bourasque", [...]The Lac Long topo 2009 is now online on DrTopo.com
It includes now routes oppend in 2008.
Page order has also been changed so that it's easier to find your way on the first visit.
(thanks [...]"Alan Cattabriga, Joe Szot, and Emilie Drinkwater have done some major link-ups recently and given us all something to aspire to.
One in the White Mountains, the other in the Adirondacks.
Any [...]The ACC's annual General Mountaineering Camp (GMC) still has spaces available this summer!
This year's camp will be located in the rarely-visited Trident/Neptune group of the Northern Selkirk Mountains, [...]The Big Wild's "Singing in the Rain" contest
"April is a lovely time of year.
Birds and flowers come back from their winter vacations, little woodland critters wake up, trees start budding and growing leaves... and the rain is relentless. [...]ACC's New Fay Hut Lost to Fire
History has repeated itself much too soon.
Thousands of volunteer hours and a whole lot of resources went into building the ACC's new Fay Hut in 2005.
The lovely two- storey log structure [...]Are Energy drinks safe? Not so sure...
According to Health Canada, most energy drinks cans contains bisphenol A
Tests done by Health Canada show that can drinks, like pop and energy drinks, contains bisphenol A, a chemical product [...]MEC Youth Climbing Camp and Scholarship
The Alpine Club of Canada and Mountain Equipment C oop are excited to offer the MEC Under 25 Climbing Camp from July 5-9.
The camp will cover the gamut of climbing disciplines from the gym to sport [...]The Candian Avalanche Centre is trying out a new way of communicating with backcountry travelers. Using photos of actual recent incidents and terrain, weather, snowpack, and avalanche data, they produced [...]
Climate change and the mountains
"...although global greenhouse gas emissions rose fairly steadily through the past few decades at an average of 0.9 percent per year through the 1990s, beginning in 2000 emissions have unexpectedly risen [...]
Banff Mountain photography competition
Now is the time to send your best mountain shots to Banff!
This year you can send shots digitally - all the details are in the regulations. In addition to over $4,000 in cash and gifts from sponsors, [...]New Major Mixed Routes on Cap Trinite
Taking advantage of the prime late season conditions, the team of Louis-Philippe Menard and Nicolae Balan established two significant mixed routes on the 300 m high granite walls of Cap Trinite.
The [...]Setting high standards for mountain protection
Linda McMillan, nominated to become the new president of the UIAA Mountain Protection Commission, presents her vision of how climbers, mountaineers and trekkers can help study and protect mountain environments.
[...]Squamish Climbing History, The First 50 Years
During the last 50 years, Squamish has evolved from a sleepy, backwater logging town into the centre of some of the best granite free climbing in the country.
Anders I. Ourom has undertaken the [...]Ontario's Leslie Timms has quietly become one of the top female climbers in the country with fast ascents of countless 5.13 sport climbs.
Follow her cross-country travels on her regularly [...]No More Glaciers in Glacier National Park (USA) by 2020?
It's an oft-repeated statistic that the glaciers at Montana's Glacier National Park will disappear by the year 2030. But Daniel Fagre, a U.S. Geological Survey ecologist who works at Glacier, says the [...]
"Descending a snowfield or crossing a glacier in a whiteout can be a complete horrorshow: the ground and the air blur into one, leaving you disoriented, and tracks from your ascent quickly become buried [...]
The Mountain Legacy Project is a partnership between the University of Victoria, Parks Canada, Alberta Sustainable Resource Development and others. They are looking for 4 people to undertake repeat photography [...]
Shawbridge is now part of FQME
Following negotiations since Feb 2008, the Falaises de Prévost (Shawbridge) site have been added to the FQME network.
FQME is proud to announce that access to this prime Laurentides ice climbing [...]A new topo of the Gros Bras massif in the Grands Jardins Park is now available as a free download:
https://admin.alpineclubofcanada.ca/link/to/876-58674-38-02 .
Thanks to Francois Xavier [...]Chic Scott - guide book author, Canadian mountaineering historian and ACC honourary member, has provided the ACC NewsNet with his list of favourite mountaineering books.
This list is about the pure [...]Have you replaced your old plastic water bottle yet?
Do you still fill your old plastic water bottle with hot water in the winter?
'Scott Belcher, PhD, and his team (at the University of Cincinnati) found when polycarbonate drinking bottles were exposed [...]Mountain Equipment Coop deals for members
The MEC offers all kinds of deals for its members, including free avalanche gear rentals for those on a course, free travel insurance and discounts at Hostelling International, Bike Registry Canada and [...]
Winter is a fantastic time for photography.
The crowds are thin, the air is clear and the sun is low in the sky, making the good light better for longer.
Here are a few tips gathered from [...]#5 Big Bros made since March 2008 have improperly aligned inner tubes.
Although barely noticeable in use, this off-center orientation is not to spec and should be corrected. It could cause additional [...]Important Message for non-Canadian Citizens Travelling to the U.S.
The following notice applies to travellers seeking admission to the United States who require a visa for entry; the program [...]Take the online avalanche course
Ski season is just around the corner! Now is a great time to brush up on your avalanche awareness skills by taking the Canadian Avalanche Association's online avalanche course at
http://ac [...]Advances in frostbite treatment
Doctors using specialized imaging methods to precisely deliver drugs to frostbitten hands and feet may be able to save them from amputation, researchers reported on Monday. Overall, in about 80 per cent [...]
Ice anchors and snow shoveling
With the onset of winter snow and ice, our members are out there skiing and climbing. There are two articles on the ACC's Mountain Safety Page that might prove useful to outdoor enthusiasts. The first [...]
Gaspe Mini-Guide: Ice Climbing and Backcountry Skiing
This mini guide to the Gaspe Peninsula is intended for ice climbers and backcountry skiers. The Gaspesie offers some great ice climbing on dramatic sea cliffs, not to mention some of the best backcountry [...]
Montage fall/winter 2008-2009, is now available online
The latest edition of the ACC Montreal newsletter, Montage, is now available online along with previous editions back to 2003!
Read it at:
http://www.accmontreal.ca/club/newsletter.phpBackcountry ski equipment advice
Backcountry skiing is a broad sport. Even seasoned veterans obsess over what might be the best gear for a particular endeavor. This comprehensive article on CascadeClimbers.com enumerates the virtues [...]
Outside Online asked top athletes to share their best recipes. The athletes "offered a variety of well-balanced ideas which...meet athletes' nutritional requirements: plenty of carbs, a good dose of protein, [...]
More on Google Earth and the Rocky Mountains
Through the efforts of some ACC members, if Google Earth is accessed through
http://www.peakfinder.com/GE_Peaks.htm
all the peaks in the Rockies are identified. You can sort by [...]Check out this page for Google Earth KML files showing the mountains of BC:
http://www3.telus.net/mtnclimb/pers/climbing/climbing.htmlLooking for a good adventure read?
The following list is devoted to books that offer the truest inspiration, the deepest reflection, the strongest provocation. These are books that seize imaginations and rattle sedentary lives.
Compiled [...]Waterman Fund Alpine Essay Contest Winner: Climate Change at the Top
The Waterman Fund is pleased to announce that Kimberley S. K. Beal's piece "Climate Change at the Top" is the winner of the first annual Waterman Fund Alpine Essay Contest...read more about this contest [...]
Long time member and friend Bev Bendell passed away
Sad news- Long time member and friend Bev Bendell passed away earlier in the week after a short stay in hospital as a result of pneumonia.
Cam Roe has been in contact with her husband Joe who [...]Interested in getting a visual tour of some ACC Montreal outings?
Or you'd like to see how was the last activity that you unfortunately missed.
Then head to the ACC Montreal photo sharing [...]Alpine climbing requires the minimum amount of gear, combined with the maximum amount of effort, in order to achieve success. Due to the fact that gear is kept to such a minimum, it's vital that what [...]
Wondering what kind of shoe to get? Need a specialized shoe or all-around shoe? Want to know about fit?
Climbing Magazine has posted their 2008 rock shoe review, covering 23 different shoes. [...]Want to get more life and better performance out of your rock shoes? The REI has great rock shoe care tips including preventing stench, increasing life, improving performance, plus advice on when to get [...]
Pic aux Corbeau at Mount Orford closed
The Pic aux Corbeau at Mount Orford in Quebec is closed due to peregrin falcon nesting until September.
En Francais;
https://admin.alpineclubofcanada.ca/link/to/234-36748-11-02
So you're standing on your stance and the ropes are totally stuck. How do you get them down? Now, there are multiple scenarios and options depending on the steepness of the rock above, the amount of rope [...]
When auto-locking belay devices (eg. the Petzl Gri-Gri) first appeared on the market, they were seen as a fool-proof solution to belayer error. The carnage that resulted prompted at least one manufacturer [...]
So, your rope is completely jammed above you, the ground still a long way away. You've tried just about everything to get it down, pulling on it, pulling on it harder, setting up a haul system, cried, [...]
Earth Details has made their Canadian 3D contour maps available free of charge. Zoomed in, the maps are 1:50,000. Zoomed out, they are a blend of 1:250,000 and 15m resolution satellite imagery.
[...]The Alpine Club of Canada boasts an impressive library collection of approximately 3,500 titles. The Library is housed at the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies in Banff, AB and is open to the public [...]
Check out this Turner Classic Movie from 1938, entitled "Three on a Rope". The clip is about 10 minutes long, and provides great entertainment!
http://www.tcm.com/tcmdb/title.jsp?stid=4007 [...]Want to learn to tie a bowline or munter mule? This website shows all kinds of climbing (and other) knots being tied in animation. Each knot automatically "ties itself" when the page opens. Fast and slow [...]
High altitude and human physiology - a tutorial
Climbers and software development specialists Craig and An ne Knoche have created an online model of human altitude physiology that allows users to simulate the effects of changes in elevation, temperature, [...]
10 best rock climbs in the United States
Forbes Traveler polled Will Gadd, Sonnie Trotter and several other stars of the v ertical world to create a list of the 10 Best Rock Climbs in the U.S. The routes, which range from classic beginner climbs [...]
Rumney climbing cliffs temporarily closed
The Rumney climbing cliffs in New Hampshire are temporarily closed due to fires in the area. Reports indicate that the climbing areas were not directly affected, but several approach trails have been [...]
Are you an alpinist?
Take the test at
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/rb-alpinist-quiz https://admin.alpineclubofcanada.ca/link/to/179-36748-10-02Thunder Bay Section Chair Nick Buda was inspired to write an article about climbing gear safety after witnessing several close-call's and lots of unsafe practices at the cliffs.
His article [...]Recently at the Climbing Wall Association meeting in Boulder, Petzl introduced a new Grigri belay technique. For your information, here is a link to a video that they put together showing the new technique.
[...]MOC House in Prevost, for sale
As you may be aware, McGill University has announced that after 54 years they will be closing down and selling the MOC house/property in Prevost.
In a day where increasing numbers of the population
Location: Prevost, for sale [...]Tuthilltown Gristmill Campground near the Gunks closed
Ralph Erenzo, who has generously allowed climbers to camp at his Tuthilltown Gristmill property near the Shawangunks climbing areas, has suspended camping to allow expansion of his successful Tuthilltown [...]
New backcountry communication device
The SPOT Satellite Messenger is a small, light and inexpensive personal locator and message sender. Combining satellite and GPS technology, SPOT can transmit a user's GPS coordinates and message to a [...]
Tamaron has several educational podcasts on their website with tips for indoor, outdoor and wildlife photography.
Go to
http://www.tamron.com/lenses/learning_center/pro_learning_center_pod [...]Lake Louise area now in high resolution on Google Earth
Google Earth now has the Lake Louise and Lake O'Hara areas in high resolution. Check out the Elizabeth Parker and Abbot Huts, and use it to plan your next hike or climb!
Go to http://earth.google.com/ACC Gazette moves to new schedule
As you know your Fall Gazette has not yet arrived in the mail! That is because the Gazette has moved to a new publication schedule. It will now be published November 1, March 1 and July 1 of each year. [...]
Techno-mountain planning, Google maps/earth and GPS
Don Cameron from the Vancouver Island Section has beta for using Google Maps or Google Earth to plot your maps. Convert your coordinates to lat/long; put the coordinates into a KML file; post the KML [...]
In late 2006, Vancouver's Mike Doyle set a goal to climb 100 routes of 5.13a or harder during the following 365 days. A few days ago, in-between sampling the fine climbing at the New River Gorge, Doyle [...]
Turgeon Solos Unclimbed Peak in Pakistan
Quebec climber Maxime Turgeon, whose partner Louis-Philippe Menard was injured during an acclimatization climb, forged ahead all alone on Farol East, making the first ascent of the 6,350-meter peak in [...]
Win a down sleeping bag from Marmot!
Sign up for an ACC Winter or Global Mountain Adventure before November 30, 2007 and you could win a Sawtooth down sleeping bag (rated -9 C, 600 Fill Power) from Marmot. Check out our exciting winter trips [...]
Deadline for The North Face winter leadership course
Amateur leaders are the backbone of the Alpine Club of Canada, providing beginner, intermediate, and advanced trips to other members, allowing Sections to boast broad and varied trip schedules. With the [...]
Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley, authors of the American Alpine Club-published Himalayan Database, have released a fascinating statistical analysis of climbing in Nepal over the past 50-plus years. [...]
Byron Smith Summit Lawsuit Dismissed
Last year Gripped Magazine reported on the dispute between Byron Smith and the American Alpine Club. Smith had posted an image on his website with the caption, "Byron Smith Successful Summit, May 21, [...]
The Monty Python view on climbing
If you are a Monty Python fan, check out their skits on climbing Kilimanjaro and the north face of Uxbridge Road at
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiTB8AwpFPg
Gripped Magazine is featuring ACC member David Dornian in their latest "Northern Faces" page. The issue also features an article on the great crack climbing in Quebec. Be sure and pick up the latest copy!
[...]Historic mountaineering books and journals for sale
Vancouver Section life member Patrick Duffy is selling several historic mountaineering books and journals by authors such as Mummery, Rebuffat, Herzog and Munday. To see the complete list and prices, [...]
Fairy Meadow winter hut custodians needed
The Alpine Club of Canada is seeking volunteer custodians for the Bill Putnam (Fairy Meadow) Hut this upcoming ski season. For more information please go to
http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/careers/custodians.htmlEnvironment Canada budget cuts threaten wildlife programs
Serious budget problems at Environment Canada are threatening wildlife programs and services within the federal department, freezing allotted money for some and reducing funds to nothing for others, CBC [...]
2007 Banff Mountain photography contest winners announced
To see this year's winning photographs from the prestigious Banff Centre's Mountain Culture annual photography contest, go to
http://www.banffcentre.ca/mountainculture/photo/competition/2007/
[...]Safety Committee - Crampon Recall notice:
Petzel America has issued a voluntary recall of Petzl M34 BL Am'D BALL-LOCK and M36 BL WILLIAM BALL-LOCK carabiners with the new metal locking sleeve due to the possibility that the sleeve can be unlocked [...]
Photo Contest - EscaladeQuebec and The North Face
EscaladeQuebec, in collaboration with The North Face, organize a Photo Contest
You have a nice Mountain or climbing photo? Submit it to the contest and you may win a Prophet 45 back pack from The [...]Ever wondered if using old white gas is really bad for your stove?
Always wanted to know how to dispose of old white gas safely?
To find out the answers to these questions, go to:
http://outside.away.com/outside/gear/gearguy/200708/20070809.html [...]A Coroners court finding for the four fatalities that occurred on Mt Tasman in December 2003 asked the New Zealand Mountain Guides Association and the New Zealand Mountain Safety Council to look into [...]
Are your plastic water bottles killing you?
National Geographic has posted a very enlightening article on the environmental cost of bottled water.
Included in the article is a section on Nalgene and other plastic re-usable bottles, and their [...]Kolin Powick is the Quality Assurance Manager at Black Diamond. A mechanical engineer originally from Canada, he now calls Salt Lake City home. On his off time he belays his wife while she warms up on [...]
Wondering what to do with your old climbing ropes?
1. Give it to a horse stable
2. Give it to a farmer
3. Send it to the Sterling Rope Company. They recycle old dynamic ropes (they send them off to get melted down and re-made into carpet fiber, [...]Gripped magazine has an excellent Canadian climbing resource section on their website.
You can find out locations and types of climbing across Canada, as well as find information on guidebooks, [...]ACC member Don Bowie recently returned from his successful trip to K2.
Don's is the fourth ascent of K2 by a Canadian.
To read about the expedition, go to:
http://sharedsummits.com/content/view/12/23/Radio broadcast journalist Michael Short attended the ACC's General Mountaineering Camp this summer and interviewed several of the staff and participants.
To hear the interview and learn more about
Location: the news [...]Alpine climbing gear recommendations
This article (by accomplished alpinist Colin Haley) is intended to help guide you in equipment decisions for serious alpine climbs on big mountains. (It is) written with the assumption that you already [...]
Québec climber sends 5.14 crack
Sylvain "Sly" Masse has redpointed La Zébrée, the 5.14a crack climb at Mont King in Québec. Masse had been working on the 80-foot, severely overhanging finger and hand crack for two years. For his redpoint, [...]
The 2007 Accidents in North American Mountaineering book is now for sale through the ACC's online store and at the Clubhouse. 2007 is the 60th issue of this important publication.
By analyzing what [...]What better way to get the most out of your membership than to share the experience with one of your closest buddies?
Starting September 1, bring a new member into the club and you could win a prize [...]Join other members on facebook
Meeting other members and keeping yourself informed about club activities is made even easier with the ACC Montreal group on Facebook.
Join us at:
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=5891706486The ACC is working on some new marketing material for Facilities and we are looking for digital photos of our huts which feature happy smiling people!
If you have anything that might be suitable [...]Each day you invent the future with the choices you make about food, transportation, and energy use. By joining the Nature Challenge, you'll be protecting the environment and our quality of life for future [...]
7 tips to help you get the onsight
With only one chance to onsight a route, it's not surprising most climbers view an onsight as the pinnacle of good style and technical mastery. To be successful, everything needs to work perfectly.
[...]Laminated charts are heavy, cannot be folded, can't be written on and are very expensive. Conventional waterproof maps and charts are not available for all areas and are likewise very expensive.
[...]ACC huts - trail and road updates
ACC huts - trail and road updates
The road to the Bugaboos was washed out in a few places on the night of July 18. The road is now open but expect delays up to 5 hours as they still need to replace [...]Canadian Wildlife Federation Photo Contest
CWF offers a monthly photo contest, with a grand prize winner chosen each year. You can submit Canadian flora, fauna, habitat or landscape photos for a chance to win a monthly prize of a signed print [...]
Ice climbers give eyewitness accounts of global warming
Mountaineers are bringing back first-hand accounts of vanishing glaciers, melting ice routes, crumbling rock formations and flood-prone lakes where glaciers once rose.
For more on this story, visit [...]Lightning Safety, the 30-30 rule!
Every year in Canada, six to 12 people are killed by lightning and dozens more are injured. Due to recent lightning fatalities in Alberta and Ontario and the powerful thunderstorm that passed over the [...]
Free online topographical maps
Natural Resources Canada (NRCan) now offers its existing Digital Topographic Data (DTD) products for free as TIFF files on the web.
This includes 1:50,000 and 1:250,000 topographic maps.
The [...]Montage Summer 2007 edition is now available!
The latest edition of ACC montreal Newsletter, Montage, is now in the mail. You should receive it in the coming days.
An electronic format will also be made available in the newsletter section [...]Care to save endangered wallabies or look after lemurs? Skip the package tours this summer and apply your talents where they'll accomplish the most.
Here's how:
http://www.thegreenguide.co [...]"In a new investigation of 783 name-brand sunscreens, the Environmental Working Group (EWG) found widespread evidence that many products on the market are not safe and effective, including one of every [...]
Sixty-nine year old Toronto-area man who climbed Everest says he feels 29
"69-year-old Newmarket resident (Werner Berger) returned home Thursday, riding high on the claim of being the oldest North American to reach the top of the world. Berger says the feat also makes him the [...]
Check out ACC Gazette editor Lynn Martel's recent interview with Canada's top free climber, Sonnie Trotter for Up! WestJet's in-flight magazine at
http://www.up-magazine.com/magazine/exclusives/index.shtml [...]Constructions at Lacolle border crossing
We advise members going to the Adirondacks and Keene Farm that there are constructions on the highway right before the Lacolle border crossing.
Huge delays have been observed in border crossing due [...]Places available in the Calgary and Rocky Mountain Sections camps
The Calgary and Rocky Mountain Sections are holding week-long mountaineering camps in the Iconoclast/Benedict Creek area this summer and have a few spots available which they are now releasing to other [...]
The MONTREAL INTERNATIONAL ADVENTURE FILM FESTIVAL is now looking for filmmaker, producer, directors, distributors and other film industry participants around the world, professionals and amateurs, to [...]
Camp stoves and carbon monoxide poisoning
Geoff Powter, Canadian Alpine Journal editor, has an article about the deaths of Claire Dixon and Cornelius (Kees) Brenninkmeyer in the current issue of Explore magazine. Claire and Kees died somewhat [...]
Quebec climber completes all-free rope solo of El Capitan in Yosemite
"Quebec climber Stéphane Perron capped a remarkable string of solo ascents in Yosemite Valley with a solo of Free Rider (37 pitches, 5.12d) on El Capitan."
To read the rest of his impressive tick [...]When was founded the first Canadian Alpine Club?
Did you know . . . that the first "Canadian Alpine Club" was founded at the summit of Roger's Pass in the summer of 1883 by Sir Sandford Fleming. The Toronto Section has posted a very interesting historic [...]
CRPF at the National Environemental Exibition
The CRPF will be at the National Environemental Exibition on June 8, 9, 10 in Montreal's old port.
Come and meet us.
Bring your friends along to sign our petition!
http://www.parc [...]Proposition: Torngats expedition, august 2008
Pierre Lefebvre, a CMC [Club de Montagne le Canadien] member is looking for participants for a 3 week expedition in the Torngats for August 2008, Quebec's 400th anniversary!
The Torngats is this
Location: Torngats, Quebec [...]Free spaces for ACC Ottawa Section Fairy Meadows Mountaineering Camp
ACC Ottawa is holding a Mountaineering Camp at the ACC Bill Putnam (Fairy Meadow) Hut this summer. The dates are Saturday July 28th to Saturday August 4th.
Camp participants will rendez-vous [...]As you may know, due to a change in work Art Campbell was no longer able to fulfill his responsibilities as Environment and Access Coordinator for our section. He thus resigned from the position.
[...]Pilates Cross-training for Climbers
As a climber, have you ever wished you were a little taller so you could make a big reach, or a little more flexible for a high step? Have you ever resorted to picking up your foot and placing it where [...]
The Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'escalade [FQME] and the Alpine Club of Canada [ACC] reached a mutual agreement to share their services.
You can read the press release [in French]:
[...]Next WE, 25-27 may 2007, is The Montreal's great outdoor happening:
Festival plein air de Montreal
Details at:
http://www.espaces.qc.ca/plein%5Fair/
Location: MontrealACC member heading to top of Canada
Alpine Club of Canada member, Josh Lazzari, will be going on an expedition to Mt. Logan, attempting to reach its 5959m (19,551ft) peak during the month of May and early June. The team of 14 was flown [...]
Showers now available at Keene
We are pleased to announce that showers are now available to the users of Keene Farm.
Where: Adirondack Ark Motel- 1.4 km north of Styles Brook Rd. on the 9N
Cost: $US 5 including
Location: Keene, NY [...]Help wanted to set up climbing routes at Cap Blanc [Charlevoix]
On May 12 and 13 2007, FQME and Club de montagne et d'escalade de Québec
http://www.cmeq.net/
are organising volonteer work at the climbing site of Cap Blanc, Pointe au Pic, Charlevoix.
Location: Cap Blanc, à Pointe au Pic dans Charlevoix [...]For a limited time, non members are invited to our 105 acre property in the Adirondacks for as little as 5$.
This is to help fund initiatives of the "Comité régional de protection des falaises [...]This Sat May 6th "les amis de la montagne" are organizing their annual Mont Royal spring cleaning day.
You can contribute!
Contact: 514-843-8240 poste 0
http://www.lemontroyal.qc.ca/Previous Newsletter now available
We're one year late, but here it is, the missing electronic edition of our winter 2006 newsletter -- Montage edition 64.1 -- is now available at:
http://www.accmontreal.ca/club/newsletter.phpNew pictures, ACC Montreal last winter
We just added many pictures of our club's activities last winter in the main gallery:
http://accmontreal.ca/misc/gallery/main.php
It was once more a very active winter!
If you [...]On April 21 is the earth day 2007.
See what you can do:
http://www.jourdelaterre.org/ACC Summer Camps (Rockies), Spaces available
Still wondering what to do on your summer vacation? There are still spaces available on these unique guided and catered camps through the National office of the ACC:
North Rockies Intro to [...]Photos of last summer's section camp
Better later than never... we just put up a new photo gallery with pictures of last summer's section camp in Lake O'hara.
If you have any picture of this camp not already in the gallery, please [...]Summer 2007 TNF Leadership course registration deadline
This is just a reminder that the deadline for applications for the Summer 2007 TNF Leadership course is coming up quickly: May 1, 2007.
Information about the course and the application process
Location: http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/activities/leadership.html [...]Vancouver's The Georgia Straight weekly recently published an article on backcountry trail food, featuring the ACC Vancouver Section Chairman, Tony Knight.
To find out what Tony and others recommend [...]Celebrate National Wildlife Week!
April 8 to 14 is National Wildlife Week, and this year's focus is on Canada's North. Learn more about Canadian wildlife by attending some of the many events planned in Ottawa, Ontario, Chelsea, Quebec [...]
Recently the ESPACE magazine was publishing an interesting article on how we can enjoy the ourdoors while respecting the environement [in French].
<< Faire du plein air de façon responsable [...]Mud season has begun in the Adirondacks
Mud season has begun in the High Peaks region of the Adirondacks.
I just received an advisory to that effect from the park agency (NYSDEC) a few days ago and is mentioned following this paragraph. [...]2008 Beijing Olympic torch to be carried to Everest's summit
The Olympic torch will be carried to Mt. Everest's summit prior to the 2008 Olympic Games in Beijing. A trial run will be held in the spring of 2007, and the number of climbers on the Tibetan side of [...]
Congratulations to our volonteers and winners
At the last executive meeting, ten names of ACC volunteers were chosen from amongst the many volunteers that we have in the club. As mentioned previously, SEPAQ had donated to us 2 nights for 4 people [...]
ACC receives $100,000 donation
The ACC has received a $100,000 donation from long-time member, volunteer and past staff member Bev Bendell. Bev has brain cancer, and has been told that she does not have long to live. With Bev's long-standing [...]
Ice conditions in Ontario, Quebec and Northeastern States
Want to know about ice climbing conditions and winter events in the Northeast?
Visit http://neice.com/
Location: Ontario, Quebec and Northeastern StatesLarge avalanche on Trap Dike, Adk
As predicted, the large snowfalls followed by very wet and mild weather last week caused a large avalanche on Trap Dike. Avalanche Lake now lives up to its name as there is a large mound of avalanche [...]
The www.accmontreal.ca web site has just been updated.
We kept the same look and feel you are used to, modifying some content and functionalities.
We hope you'll find it easy to use and [...]Carbon off-setting is the practice of putting money toward projects that offset the greenhouse gases you produce. Carbon off-set organizations provide "carbon calculators" which allow you to figure out [...]
Spend the summer in Bugaboo or Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park and get paid for it!
The Alpine Club of Canada is seeking four reliable outdoor enthusiasts to work as full time custodians at the Kain Hut in Bugaboo Provincial Park and the Kokanee Glacier Hut near Nelson, BC during the [...]
Avalanche victims in the Adirondacks
The following was posted on the Rock and River
web site last night. Be aware that avalanche danger is
very high at this time and that the warm weather could
turn the avalanche conditions [...]Strength testing ice screws and abalakovs
Wonder how solid or not ice screws and abalakovs are?
Check out this video on the site of Petzl/Charlet Moser on strength testing them.
It's great!
http://fr.petzl.com/petzl/SportNews?News=173The Alpine Club of Canada is going to outer space!
Dave Williams, an astronaut from Saskatoon, will be leaving planet earth on June 28, 2007, with a piece of the Alpine Club of Canada. Each astronaut has been asked to bring a small memento from an organization [...]
A simple way to help the environment
"If every American switched just one (standard light) bulb to an Energy Star certified compact fluorescent, it would save $8 billion in energy costs, 30 billion pounds of coal, and remove two million [...]
Trylon TSF is a tower manufacturer based in southwestern Ontario. They are looking for climbers who would like to work as tower technicians on a large project upgrading the Rogers wireless network across [...]
Montage Winter 2007 edition is now available!
The latest edition of ACC montreal Newsletter, Montage, is now in the mail. You should receive it in the coming days.
An electronic format will also be made available in the newsletter section [...]ACC National Survey, check out the results
The results of the 2006 ACC National Survey are now available online at:
http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/survey/
Check it out!
Take an online avalanche course
The Canadian Avalanche Association offers the "Avalanche First Response Training Program" - an online avalanche course for everyone from beginners to veterans wanting to refresh their skills and knowledge. [...]
Rendez-vous de la Montagne, 23-25 Mar, Gaspesie, Quebec
This will be an outdoor weekend for the whole family. Try snowshoeing and ice climbing, take a mountaineering course and sleep in an igloo!
For more information, visit
http://rdvmontagne.c [...]DEC Warns of Avalanche Danger in the Adirondacks
See: http://www.dec.state.ny.us/websit
Location: Adirondacks, NY, USA [...]Free travel insurance for trips to the United States
The Mountain Equipment Coop and The Co-operators insurance offer no-cost two-day multi-trip travel and medical insurance for Canadian MEC members who are traveling (including climbing) out of province [...]
Much of what you know about surviving an avalanche is wrong!
American avalanche expert Dale Atkins says much of what you know about surviving an avalanche is wrong.
If you want to know more, go to
http://www.denverpost.com/ci_4550539
The festiglace, big ice limbing happening and competitions in Quebec will be held next WE. don't miss it!
Location: Pont-Rouge, Qc [...]"Global warming is here, it's human-caused, and it will continue for centuries even if greenhouse-gas emissions are stabilized, an international panel of climate experts said in a report issued (February [...]
Interview with Barry Blanchard on escaladequebec.com
Following the January presentation of Barry Blanchard in Montreal, co-organized by ACC Montreal and MOC, escaladequebec.com took the advantage to make a video interview with this famous climber.
You [...]This weekend should see an improvement in snow conditions in the Laurentians
with a possible 5 ? 10 cms if not more, Friday. A small low pressure system
coming in from western Canada might link
Location: Laurentians, Qc [...]David Suzuki in Montreal on Feb 7th
For all those interested in tracking Climate Change and its impacts
David Suzuki will be coming to Montreal as part of a cross-Canada tour on
climate change called 'what would you do if
Location: Montreal, Qc [...]I have asked a well known chain of fitness clubs (30 branches in QC) for a corporate rate for our members.
If you are a member of a fitness club or are considering joining one please contact [...]There has been 15 cms of new snow in the Laurentians this week. This is in
addition to the hard base that was already present. Best conditions will be
found at touring centers which feature
Location: Laurentians, Qc [...]Message for environmentally-friendly products, mountain lovers
Hi all recyclers, users of environmentally-friendly products, mountain lovers,
etc.
A documentary called ?Inconvenient Truth,? based on Al Gore's global warming
presentations [...]Hello
As of December the 25th the only Skiing that can be done in the Laurentians
is lift served. Of note is the Summit Zone of Mt Tremblant which features
complete coverage on close to
Location: Laurentians, Qc [...]Dear Section Chairs and Reps,
We are hoping that you can help the National Office spread the word about spaces that we have on several of our upcoming winter Mountain Adventures. If there is [...]To all Section Reps and Section Chairs,
This is just a reminder that the deadline for applications for Volunteer Awards is December 31 2006. For more information about what awards are available, [...]VIMFF 2007 announces call for submissions
ADVERTISEMENT
VIMFF 2007 announces call for submissions
for Mountain Photo Competition
December 5, 2006 (Vancouver) -- The 10th Annual Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival [...]Safety Committee - Recall notice:
Petzel America has issued a voluntary recall of Petzl M34 BL Am'D BALL-LOCK and M36 BL WILLIAM BALL-LOCK carabiners with the new metal locking sleeve due to the [...]Registration for the AGM ends very shortly.
If 600 Sherbrooke St E. Apt. 403 is convenient please bring Annie Martin your cash/cheque tonight (Thurs) between 18:00 and 20:30
[...]ACC Montreal Camp in the White Mountains next summmer?
Murray Levine is interested in renting a house in the Whites next summer for a week perhaps 2 (if enough people) and having a "section camp". He has found a house that sleeps 12 at $1000/wk so the cost
Location: White Mountains, NH, USA [...]Flooding situation at Keene and trail conditions
Hi everyone!
This just in from the National Weather Service:
500 AM EST FRI NOV 17 2006
THE NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE IN BURLINGTON HAS ISSUED
A
* FLOOD WARNING
Location: Keene, NY, [...]New On-line Membership Profile
As you may know, we now have an online ?membership profile? function up and running on the ACC National website. www.alpineclubofcanada.ca In response to feedback from Section and Members, a lot of time [...]
Gripped magazine subscription offer
Hello ACC members,
If you opened the last issue of Montage, you will see a separate sheet of paper from Gripped climbing magazine.
To celebrate our Centennial, it is offering to [...]Newsletter from "Comité régional de protection des falaises"
In order to keep people interested in the Prevost Parc situation, the CRPF put toghether a newsletter.
You may register by contacting:
info@parcdesfalaises.ca
Location: Prevost, QcCongratulations to Isabelle Daignault
See the November Edition of Epaces Magazine on p8-9.
http://www.espaces.qc.ca/espaces/html/actualites/nov2006/actualites134.shtml
Our club is run by volunteers. We are all giving our free time in order to have the great club we enjoy. We need your help, we need all members to get involved.
With the upcoming AGM you can [...]Fall Montage newsletter now online
Fall Montage newsletter is now online.
You will find it along with previous editions in the newsletter section of the ACC montreal web site
www.accmontreal.caTips to fight global warming/climate change
In the interest of slowing down of the melting glaciers, having good back county skiing and less rainy weekends please check out and follow the tips
http://www.nwf.org/energy/carbonfund.cfmFill in a National ACC survay and you may win a year's free membership to the ACC.
http://alpineclubofcanada.ca/survey/
In the next couple of weeks our members will be receiving a personalized email invitation to complete the ACC Centennial Survey. The results of the survey will broken down by both Section and by overall [...]
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