News 2001
| Dec 17 | The Alpine Accidents in Canada project is trying to locate Quebec route photos for the book and website [more] |
| Nov 08 | Mike Nash of the Prince George Section informs us that BC Parks is inviting public input on the management plan for Kakwa Provincial Park |
| Aug 20 | High Peaks Update - Fire Ban, Falcons, Trails |
| July 20 | High Peaks Update - Important Adirondack News |
| June 14 | New Fearless Food Prep Manual from Bev Bendell |
| June 14 | Marmot Women's Summer Mountaineering Program |
| June 4 | New Mount Alberta publication |
| May 15 | Banff Mountain Book Festival call for entries (national ACC web site) |
| May 17 | ACC announces new publication: "Alpine Accidents In Canada" (national ACC web site) |
| May 15 | Have you received your FQME membership card? |
| May 4 | Extreme fire hazard in the Adirondacks. No camp fires at Keene! |
| Mar 26 | An invitation to the Toronto section Fairy Meadows section camp |
| Feb 25 | McGill Outing Club affiliation |
| Feb 24 | FQME access agreement reached |
Alpine Accidents in Canada - Call for Route Photos
Dec 17, 2001
Hi there!
I'm the Safety Coordinator for the ACC Edmonton Section. We are working on an Alpine Accidents project. This will be made available both in book form and also in website form. We are trying to locate route photos that we can use on the website and/or the book for Quebec locations. We will give appropriate credit to the photographers in question.
Here is the beta version of the accidents website which does not have any route photos uploaded yet:
www.hostyn-podemski.com/accidents/index.asp
We hope to be in a position to have an appropriate route or location photo for each accident: Once we have the photos all uploaded we will be moving the files onto the ACC Edmonton section site.
Also, if you have any other comments of suggestions to help improve the website or publication I'd be happy to hear from you. Please feel free to forward this message to any other climbers who might be interested in providing feedback, suggestions or photos.
Many Thanks for your help!
Edwina Podemski
High Peaks Update - Fire Ban, Falcons, Trails
Aug 20, 2001
1) Fire Ban on all State Lands in the Adirondack Park
New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) Commissioner Erin M. Crotty today announced that due to dry weather conditions, the agency is prohibiting campfires on all DEC-administered Forest Preserve lands in the Adirondack Park. This restriction does not apply to campfires at DEC’s 42 public campgrounds in the Park.
"The extended dry weather conditions in the Adirondack Park have increased the risk of wildfires, and we are taking this step to protect public safety and natural resources within the Forest Preserve," Commissioner Crotty said. "Many people enjoy the outstanding recreational opportunities in the Adirondacks, and we are asking for their cooperation in refraining from using fires until conditions improve."
2) Further Trail Closures
High Peaks Wilderness Area
DEC staff have removed a log ladder on the trail between Upper Wolfjaw and Armstrong Mountains due to
safety concerns. A temporary route around the 20 foot cliff has been marked out. A replacement ladder is
planned for Fall 2001 or Spring 2002.
West Canada Lakes Wilderness Area
DEC staff have removed the bridge on N-P trail over West Canada Creek, just downstream from Mud Lake. The
bridge will be replaced next summer.
Black River Wild Forest
The access to Forest Preserve land off of Haskel Rd, Town of Ohio, Herkimer County, that allows public to
drive to various campsites along West Canada Creek in both Herkimer and Hamilton Counties, will be closed to
motor vehicle traffic, effective August 24th. due to unsafe bridge conditions. This closure will last for
an indeterminate period of time. Foot access still will be allowed from the trailhead at the end of the
Town maintained road.
3) Rock Climbing areas affected by the Peregrine Falcons
All climbing sites where the falcons have been presentare now open for the rest of the climbing season. No particular climbing route was ever affected by the falcons this year. The next notice will be in the spring of next year. For your information, 20 chicks were born out of 11 nests, a new record for the region and all have survived. Pass on the cigars!
David Gillespie
High Peaks Update - Important Adirondack News - Falcon Closures, Trail Closures, Mandatory Registration
July 20, 2001
1) Mandatory registration and self-issuing permits for the High Peaks Wilderness Area, Eastern Zone
As of July of this year, mandatory registration will be required at all trailheads with a trail register AND completing a self-issuing permit (trip ticket). Registration is by means of the log book in the trail register at the trailheads. The self-issuing permit is also in the trail register and it must be completed on site. Once completed, the front part of the tab is put into a slot in the register and the back part of the tab is to be kept with you at all times on the trail. Both the log book and the permit need to be filled in by only one person within the group. This rule will apply year round. Failure of either not signing the register or completing the self-issuing permit could result in a maximum fine of $250 and/or 15 days in jail. There are no fees involved in this process. Our club also has the permits and so they could be filled in at our camp and dropped off at the trail register.
2) Trail Closures
A- During a recent 3 inch rain storm, a large rock (over 30 feet in length) slid off the side of
Pitchoff Mountain and sliced through the trail. As a result, the instability of the mountainside has forced
the closure of the trail from the Cascade parking lot (West side of the trail) to the first summit.
B- The cable bridge crossing over Johns Brook, located immediately behind the Interior Outpost has been
closed due to safety concerns. Hikers seeking to cross Johns Brook are encouraged to use either of the
following marked crossings:
Southside Trail is encouraged for day hikers who are hiking any of the mountains forming the Great Range
(Upper and Lower Wolfjaw, Armstrong Mt., Gothics, Saddleback Mt. and Basin Mt.).
Woodsfall Trail crosses Johns Brook near Johns Brook Lodge. This is the preferred crossing for hikers
camping in the lower Johns Brook valley who are planning on hiking any of the Great Range.
C- The suspension bridge over The Branch on the Elk Lake -- Mt. Marcy trail has been repaired. This bridge
was damaged during the spring melt.
D- The suspension bridge over the Opalescent River on the East River trail remains unusable. This bridge was
also damaged during the spring melt.
If you intend to go on any of these trails later this year, it is advised that you call the New York Department of Environmental Conservation (NYDEC), Ray Brook Station at 518-576-1200 (weekdays only; 8:30 am to 4:30 pm) for further updates or visit the following website on trail conditions: http://www.dec.state.ny.us/website/dlf/publands/adktrails.html Calling is the surest way to get the latest information.
3) Rock Climbing areas affected by the Peregrine Falcons
I just checked today with Kim Goodspeed, the person in charge of the program and there is no change in status from what was published on the DEC website on May 30: http://www.dec.state.ny.us/website/reg5/closedrock.html
As of May 30, 2001, the peregrine falcon eyrie (nest) site at Moss Cliff (Wilmington Notch) has been identified. Other cliffs are being monitored, with the eyrie sites being unconfirmed at this time. Additional Climbing Closure Notifications may be sent out at a later date, pending identification of eyries at other sites.
Dix Mountain Wilderness Area: No routes closed
Giant Mountain Wilderness Area: No routes closed
High Peaks Wilderness Area: No routes closed
McKenzie Mountain Wilderness Area: No routes closed
Sentinel Range Wilderness Area: No routes closed
Taylor Pond Wild Forest: No routes closed
Washbowl Cliffs: Falcons have been consistently observed on the Washbowl cliff. DEC suspects that an
eyrie is on the Washbowl cliff, but it has not yet been confirmed. Care is advised when rock climbing in
the Washbowl area so that disturbance is kept to a minimum.
Giant Mountain Wilderness Area: No observed activity
High Peaks Wilderness Area
Wallface: Falcons have been reported near the climbing route, "Rubicon", but the eyrie has not yet been
confirmed. It is recommended that rock climbers avoid the area between "Case Route" and "Rubicon" to
minimize disturbance in this area.
McKenzie Mountain Wilderness Area
Moss Cliff: Eyrie has been confirmed. No rock climbing routes will be closed since the nest is not near any
published routes. It is recommended that rock climbers avoid the area to the west of the climbing route
"Falconer" to minimize disturbance to the breeding falcons.
Sentinel Range Wilderness Area: No observed activity
Taylor Pond Wild Forest
Poke-O- Moonshine: Falcons have been reported at Poke-O, but the eyrie has not yet been confirmed.
Cooperation from the public during this peregrine falcon fledgling season is greatly appreciated. For additional information or to report falcon observations near known climbing routes at unconfirmed sites, call Kim Goodspeed at (518) 897-1292 (weekdays only; 8:30 am to 4:30 pm). You could also contact her via her e-mail at kagoodsp@gw.dec.state.ny.us
-David Gillespie
New Fearless Food Prep manual from Bev Bendell
June 14, 2001
Dear ACC Section Chairs and Members,
We would like to advise you that Bev Bendell's new and improved "Fearless Food Preparation Manual is hot off the press. She has generously devoted her time to produce this useful manual which will help all those who prepare meals for groups in the backcountry.
Bev sends her thanks to those who contributed knowledge and information to the contents of the manual.
If you would like a copy of the manual, please contact the ACC national office where a copy can be purchased for $6.00 + postage.
If you would like to contact Bev personally with any comments you may have, she may be contacted by email at bevbendell@hotmail.com.
Enjoy the manual and good luck with your meal preparations.
Sincerely,
Leslie DeMarsh, Programs Director and Shannon Dick,Programs Coordinator
Marmot Women's Summer Mountaineering Program
June 14, 2001
To: ACC Executive and Board of Directors
From: Julia Keenliside, Chair, Marmot Women's Program Selection Committee
I am very pleased to advise that the following have been accepted to attend this summer's program:
Bridget Milson North Vancouver, BC, Vancouver Section
Tracy Ewen Victoria, BC, Calgary Section
Janice McQuilkan Kelowna, BC, Jasper/Hinton Section
Gretchen Ann Whethan Cranbrook, BC, Calgary Section
Marg Rees Calgary, AB, Calgary Section
Jackie Clarke Calgary, AB,Calgary Section
Lynette Lo Toronto, ON, Toronto Section
Geneveive Beaudoin Montreal, QC, Montreal Section
Monique Kervoelen Stoney Point, ON, Toronto Section
Our congratulations to them all for being selected to participate in the Marmot Women's Summer Mountaineering Program!
We were pleased to see that there were more applications for our summer program than for our winter program this year. Again, we are delighted about the high calibre of applicants for both programs. I am sure everyone involved will have a wonderful week.
The upcoming summer program will be held at the Asulkan Hut in the Rogers Pass from July 14 to 19. The program will be guided by Helen Sovdat and Alison Andrews and with Diane Schon, the camp manager will make a strong and energetic team.
Please note applications were selected based on the following criteria:
1. Previous mountaineering experience sufficient to ensure the applicant can comfortably participate in the camp without needing extensive skills instruction.
2. Previous experience in leading and organizing trips, or a good level of experience and a desire to begin leading mountaineering trips.
3. Previous experience within the Alpine Club of Canada, either as trip leader or in another volunteer role, and a commitment to continue as a
volunteer in the Club. Please note that while preference is given to those with previous volunteer experience with the Alpine Club, new members meeting the first two criteria are also considered as space allows.
In short, we chose women that wish to develop their mountaineering and leadership skills and will use their experience at this camp to help others within the ACC. The selection committee felt the above applicants easily met these criteria and they will all be an asset to this program.
Julia Keenliside
Chair, Marmot Selection Committee
New Mount Alberta Publication
Called by this Mountain: The Legend of the Silver Ice Axe and the Early Climbing History of Mount Alberta
June 4, 2001
By Robert William Sandford
English - Japanese Edition
22 pages of photographs
Limited number of copies available
Only $29.95 for members or $34.95 for non-members (plus GST & shipping)
To order please email alpclub@telusplanet.net, phone (403) 678-3200, ext. #1, fax (403) 678-3224; or by mail at Box 8040, Canmore, AB T1W 2T8
FQME Membership Card for ACC Climbers
May 15, 2001
By now all ACC Montreal Section climbers who submitted their name to the Access and Environment Coordinator should have received their FQME membership card. If you have not received your card please contact the FQME at 514-252-3004. The current list of climbers is [not avil. anymore]. The cards are sent to climbers only. More information on the FQME/ACC agreement is [not avail. anymore].
Extreme fire hazard in the Adirondacks
May 4, 2001
Because of the record setting temperatures, high winds and low relative humidity, a series of forest and ground fires have been occurring in the last few days in New York State: a 500 acre fire in the Catskills, a 20 acre fire in the Hovenburgh area, one nearby Saranac Lake and the other in the Wilmington area, all contained. As a result, a statewide ban on fires has been imposed by the NYDEC. Fire-fighting
equipment was getting bogged down in mud and ice. At one point a few trees with snow at their base were engulfed in flames.
As a result and in compliance with the DEC fire ban, CAMPFIRES ON OUR PROPERTY WILL BE FORBIDDEN UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.
Toronto Section Fairy Meadows section camp
March 26, 2001
We invite members of the Ottawa and Montreal Section to join the Toronto Section Camp at Fairy Meadows Hut on the edge of the Granite Glacier in the Adamant Range of the Selkirk Mountains from July 22 to Aug. 3 this summer. We will meet on Saturday in Golden, B.C. and travel 70 kilometers on Sunday morning to Swan Creek, where we will fly our gear in by helicopter and walk in with day packs (4-5 hour hike.) We will fly our gear out on Friday, August 3, and hike out to the road transport that day.
Fairy Meadows offers a rich and varied menu of climbing from scrambles to a long and difficult traverse of major peaks, from glacier travel, snow and ice climbing, and rock climbing to challenging climbs involving all three. The location also provides access, through one long day’s travel each way, to the Great Cairn Hut and Mt. Sir Sanford. The Fairy Meadows Hut provides a very comfortable base in an awesome setting.
We are hiring a cook who will purchase and organize our food including bivouac supplies, except for personal snacks. We are including the cost of the travel from Golden to Swan Creek in the package. Bruce Eidsvik, Toronto Section Chair, is leading the trip, with support from Don Collier and Ian Frensch. Chris and Sue Killey are serving as treasurer.s, and we have other volunteers for travel coordinator, first aid/rescue coordinator, trip record keeper, equipment organizer and local training.
We have set a budget of $789 each to cover the hut fees, cook and food, helicopter, travel from Golden and miscellaneous expenses. We expect there will be some rebate on that because we calculated generously for the helicopter.
We ask for a deposit of $100 by mid-April and the balance on June 1. Ten people have signed up from the Toronto Section with more indicating an interest. We accept people on a first-come, first-served basis of notification and immediate deposit cheques (within a week) up to 20 people. The deadline is April 16.
Please send deposit cheques to Chris and Sue Killey:
66 Morton Road,
Toronto, On M4C 4P1
and let Bruce Eidsvik know about your interest ( Tel: 416-489-4663; e-mail eidsvik@array.ca)
ACC Membership Card
May 26, 2000
When visiting Keene Farm please be prepared to show you ACC membership card to the custodian.
There have been an increasing number of cases where people have purchased house or camping passes, or payed overnight fees at member rates, when they actually were not members of the club. The best way for a custodian to verify that someone is an ACC member is via the membership card.
The club apologizes for the inconvenience but it really is for a good reason: we need the money! Keene Farm has historically been a zero profit facility, but in recent years rising taxes and insurance costs and a weak Canadian dollar have made it increasingly difficult to balance the budget. The club doesn't make any profit via Keene Farm, so each dollar collected goes directly to maintaining the facility - it costs what it costs and we need each individual to contribute their fair share.
FQME Access Agreement
Feb 24, 2001
Nous avons signé une entente formelle avec la Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l’Escalade (FQME) qui réitère notre entente verbale de longue date. Selon cette entente, nos membres pourront accéder aux sites d’escalades du Québec sans devoir acheter de carte de membre de la FQME. En retour, tous les membres de la FQME auront accès à la propriété de Keene au prix de membre. Les membres du Club Alpin du Canada qui veulent avoir accès aux sites d’escalades du Québec peuvent obtenir une carte de membre par notre coordonnateur aux accès, Robert Boucher ou Isabelle Daigneault.
We have signed a formal written agreement with the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l’Escalade (FQME) which re-affirms our long standing "unwritten" agreement with them al-lowing our ACC members to access Québec climbing areas without having to purchase an FQME membership card, in re-turn for granting access to the Keene Farm to all FQME mem-bers at ACC member rates. ACC members wishing to access Québec climbing areas can obtain an FQME membership card, call our Access co-ordinator Robert Boucher, or Isabelle Daigneault.
McGill Outing Club affiliation
Feb 25, 2001
Notre section a signé une entente avec le McGill Outing Club selon laquelle tous leurs membres bénéficieront d’un statut de « membre d’un club de plein air universitaire associé ». Ils recevront une carte de membre spéciale leur donnant droit d’accès aux installations, et de participation aux activités du Club Alpin. C’est le bureau national qui a mis sur pied cette intitative, et déjà plusieurs chapitres et clubs universitaires s’en prévalent. L’objectif visé est de sensibiliser les étudiants et les jeunes au Club Alpin pour qu’ils deviennent éventuellement des membres actifs, et également pour augmenter le taux d’utilisation de nos installations.
Our section has reached an agreement with the McGill Outing Club (MOC) to provide all of their members with a Student Outdoor Club Associated Membership Status. They will all re-ceive special membership cards that will allow them to access Club facilities and participate in activities. The idea for this pro-gram has come from the National office and is already in place in a number of other sections and University outdoor clubs. The objective is to expose students and young people to the Alpine Club with the hope of active members for the future and increas-ing the utilisation of our facilities.
